Shikisai

At Shikisai, the noodles stand out less for a pronounced firmness than for their supple stretch and gentle spring. Diners have described dipping the long noodles of the chicken tempura zaru udon into a sweetish sauce, and warm udon in which the broth and noodles seem to come together as one. This is a different appeal from the pronounced chew of Sanuki udon: it is a bowl to choose when you want noodles that are soft yet springy.

For tempura with your noodles, chicken tempura zaru udon comes with 3 pieces of chicken tempura and shiso-leaf tempura, making it a filling choice alongside chilled zaru udon. One diner found the chicken tender and its coating light, enjoying the length of the noodles and dipping them in the sauce or seasoning them with salt. For a cold bukkake option, there is also chicken-and-soft-boiled-egg tempura bukkake, with 3 pieces of chicken tempura and a soft-boiled egg. It is another way to enjoy the toppings together in one bowl.

Another way to build a meal is to add a rice dish. The weekday lunch sets listed on the menu allow rice dishes such as seasoned rice, whitebait rice and beef rice to be added for an extra charge. A diner who ordered chicken tempura zaru udon with mini beef rice singled out the beef rice's sweet-and-savoury seasoning and tender meat. It is a good combination for a meal that includes more than noodles.

For a different way to enjoy the broth, try the special nikusui, made with beef, tofu, onion and spring onion. The menu says it uses beef seasoned in the same way as the beef rice, and suggests adding toppings or condiments to taste. One diner enjoyed the broth and tofu, noting that black shichimi pepper and yuzu kosho went well with them. Whether you choose udon or make nikusui the centre of a meal with rice, the broth is a thread running through the menu.